Thursday 3 September 2009

Free knitting pattern for a Traffic Jam Tanktop

TRAFFIC JAM TANK TOP (Download and print  from https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BysBb2pJoYVwUm9uclZvVVAyQU0/edit?usp=sharing
You will need to download it to print it!

This is a lovely tank-top for a digger mad 4-5 year old. It features an intarsia traffic jam that goes from front to back, embellished with buttons and embroidery details. The garment would look even more striking with a stripy rib at the welt, armholes and neck. If you (or the recipient!) are not much into tank-tops then the 77 stitch/37 row chart is easily adapted for use in your favourite sweater pattern. By using 4ply yarn and 3.25mm needles, the pattern should be suitable for a 2-3 year old, and aran/worsted yarn and 5mm needles will make it suitable for a 5-6 year old. Probably.








I used Debbie Bliss’ Pima (I think it’s been discontinued) for this tank-top. Any DK weight yarn would do. You will need between 150g to 200g of the main colour (I went just over 150g) and one ball of each of the other colours, though you will only use a tiny fraction of each ball. The pattern is therefore hard on wool but you can always use the leftovers in a nice stripy sweater later. You will also need a pair of 3.25mm needles and a pair of 4mm needles. Also a cable needle, though you won’t be doing much with it, a safety pin, a stitch holder and a wool needle. To embellish, you will need a variety of small flattish buttons to use as wheels and the flashing light on the police car.

BACK
*Using 3.25mm needles cast on 77sts

Row 1 k1 (p1 k1) repeat to end
Row 2 p1 (k1 p1) repeat to end

Repeat these two rows another 3 times more

Change to 4mm needles and work stocking stitch (knit a row, purl a row) for four rows. Place chart. Then continue in stocking stitch until work measures 10 ½ inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row

Shape armholes
Next row; Cast off 7sts (70 stitches left)
Next row: Cast off 7sts (63 stitches left) *

Next row: k2, p2tog, knit to last 4sts, p2tog, k2
Next row: Purl

Repeat these two rows another 6 times until 49sts remain. Continue without further shaping until work measures 7 inches from start of armhole shaping, ending with a purl row

Shape shoulders
Cast off 6sts at the beginning of the next two rows and 6sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Cast off the remaining 25sts

Weave in the many loose ends if you haven’t done so already. Yes it’s dull but this is the best time to do it.



FRONT
Follow instructions for BACK from * to *

SHAPE RIGHT V-NECK AND RIGHT ARMHOLE  by working only on the first 31 stitches as follows:
Firstrow: k2, p2tog, k23, p2tog, k2 (decreasing at the neckline and armhole)
turn, leaving remaining 32 stitches on a stitch holder.
Next row: Purl to end (29sts)
Next row: k2, p2tog, k to last 4sts, p2tog, k2 (decreasing at the armhole and the neckline)
Next row: Purl  (27sts)
Next row: k2, p2tog, k to last 4sts, p2tog, k2 (decreasing at the armhole and the neckline)
Next row: Purl (25sts)
Next row: K2, p2tog, k to last 3sts, p1, k2 (decreasing at the armhole only)
Next row Purl (24sts)
Next row: k2, p2tog, k to last 4sts, p2tog, k2 (decreasing at the armhole and the neckline)
Next row: Purl (22sts)
Next row: K2, p2tog, k to last 3sts, p1, k2 (decreasing at the armhole only)
Next row Purl (21sts)
Next row: k2, p2tog, k to last 4sts, p2tog, k2 (decreasing at the armhole and the neckline)
Next row: Purl (19sts)

Next row:   Knit to last 3 stitches p1, k2
Next row:  Purl
Next row: Knit to last 3sts, p2tog, k2 (decreasing at the neckline only)
Next row Purl

Keeping armhole edge straight, repeat the last 4 rows until  12sts remain., ending with the final purl row.

Then:
Next row: Knit to last 3sts, p1, k2
Next row: Purl

Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures the same as BACK to shoulder shaping, ending at side edge

Shape shoulder
Cast off 6sts at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row. Cast off the remaining 6sts.


SHAPE RIGHT V-NECK AND RIGHT ARMHOLE  by working on the 32 stitches from the stitch holder as follows:

Slip the centre stitch onto a safety pin. Join the yarn at the neck edge to the remaining stitches from the stitch holder. Continue working on these stitches.

First row:  K2, p2tog, knit to last 4 stitches, p2tog, k2 (decreasing at the neckline and armhole)
Next row: Purl (29sts)
Next row: K2, p2tog, k to last 4sts, p2tog, k2 (decreasing at the neckline and armhole)
Next row: Purl (27sts)
Next row: K2, p2tog, k to last 4sts, p2tog, k2 (decreasing at the neckline and armhole)
Next row: Purl (25sts)
Next row: K2, p1, k to last 4sts, p2tog, k2 (deceasing at the armhole only)
Next row: Purl (24sts)
Next row: K2, p2tog, k to last 4sts, p2tog, k2 (decreasing at the neckline and armhole)
Next row: Purl (22sts)
Next row: K2, p1, k to last 4sts, p2tog, k2 (deceasing at the armhole only)
Next row: Purl (21sts)
Next row: K2, p2tog, k to last 4sts, p2tog, k2 (decreasing at the neckline and armhole)
Next row: Purl (19sts)
Continuing decreasing on the neckline only as follows:

Next row:   K2, p1, knit to end
Next row:  Purl
Next row: k2, p2tog, knit to end
Next row Purl

Keeping armhole edge straight, repeat the last 4 rows until 12sts remain., ending with the final purl row.

Then:
Next row: K2, p1, knit to end
Next row: Purl

Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures the same as BACK to shoulder shaping, ending at on a knit row

Shape shoulder THIS WILL BE A PURL ROW
Cast off 6sts at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row. Cast off the remaining 6sts.


NECKBAND
Join right shoulder seam. With right side of work facing and using size 3.25 needles, pick up and knit 48 stitches down left side of neck, knit centre stitch and mark it with a coloured thread, pick up and knit 48 stitches up right side of neck then 25 stitches across back neck.

WRONG SIDE ROW Work in p1, k1 rib to the stitch before centre stitch, slip that stitch onto RH needle, slip centre stitch onto cable needle and leave it at the back of the work, place the stitch on RH needle back onto LH needle and then place stitch on cable needle back onto LH needle and purl all three stitches together. Rib in k1, p1 to end

RIGHT SIDE ROW Rib to the stitch before the centre stitch, slip next stitch onto RH needle, slip centre stitch onto cable needle and keep it at the front of the work, slip next stitch onto RH needle then place stitch on cable needle back onto LH needle, then place both stitches from RH needle back onto LH needle and knit these three stitches together. Rib to end.

Repeat these two rows either twice or thrice more depending on how ‘filled in’ you like the neckline to be. Then repeat the first row once more. Cast off in rib decreasing at the V as before.

ARMHOLE EDGINGS

Seam left shoulder seam and neckband. With right side of work facing and using 3.25 needles pick up and knit 96 stitches evenly around armhole edge. Work 5 rows in k1 p1 rib and cast off in rib.

Join side seams with mattress stitch

Block and press, embroider the details and add the buttons for wheels and you’re done. Try it on child and wait for gratitude or otherwise.




The Charts. These are really easy to knit but they were really hard to create and they're not great yet. But it's the best I can do! The lines for the tow-truck etc are to be embroidered using chain or running stitch. The big circles representing wheels are just where the buttons would go. The yellow tow truck starts on the front and goes over to the back. The crane is going the wrong way, something my son was keen to point out to me. I explained that it was the crane that was causing the traffic jam but he isn't convinced.

BACK



FRONT


This pattern is free to print but the charts print out really badly. However, I have done a PDF, which Blogger won't let me upload. BUT if you go to the link at the top of this post then  I am assured by the kind people at Google Docs that the PDF file is yours to download and print! I couldn't get it to print direct from Google Docs but once it's downloaded it prints fine.

You may also knit up individual examples to sell if you want – heavens knows, I’ll never have time to! But if you do sell them, please include somewhere an acknowledgment that the pattern is mine! A link to this page or http://www.lespetitsanglais.co.uk/ would suffice.

8 comments:

Sarah said...

great job! i know my brother would like this - if only i was better at intarsia!

Anonymous said...

Hi, great pattern except I think you've missed a chunk out for shaping of 2nd shoulder (on front). I'm guessing it's the same as first shoulder "Repeat last four rows until 19sts remain.(X2 more)
Keeping armhole edge straight, continue to decrease at neck edge until 12sts remain, ending with a purl row." before starting the neckband...
thanks again!

Kathryn said...

Whoops! Thank you anonymous! I really must get my patterns tested before posting them... I will confirm as soon as I've amended it...

Anonymous said...

Has the pattern been amended? I only ask because i am new to knitting clothes and wouldn't know where to look for the mistake lol

Thanks

Oh and by the way its a beautiful pattern.

Kathryn said...

Sorry about the delay there - I've now altered the pattern in this post with instructions for how to finish the other side of the front. I really hope it's a) clear and b) works! I'll get round to doing the PDF sometime soon - I'm hoping that I'll be a lot more efficient now that the children are both at school. Hurray! (My gosh, won't they just seethe when they are teenagers and read stuff I wrote about them back when they liked me...)

Anonymous said...

Have knitted this pattern 5 times now and adapted if for different sizes and done in magic knit wool which gives an aaran effect. It's loved. By everyone. Thank you

Anonymous said...

Sorry that should have said fair aisle effect not aaran

Anonymous said...

I would appreciate some help.
How does one constantly change colour garn without leaving a gap in the knitting. What does one do with all the wool strands on the wrong side of the jumper without creating lumps????

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